Friday, July 21, 2017

What lead me to Badami




Before 25 years  I saw a classical dancer picture in cover of a old book called sivagami sabadham by kalki.I was just in school.Book was around 1200 pages.So I never attempted to read it as I was very new to Tamil reading.After 15 years I was working as Java developer in adventnet.My mentor used to read ponniyin selvan a 5 part historical fiction by kalki.Later after couple of years I bought the same book from book show in ymca grounds in chennai.Book was a historical fiction about a period in chola kingdom.It is considered celebrated hit series of Tamil literature.People still love reading  this book and it had all ingredients like  love's impact on intellect and decision making, art of war, bravery, techniques employed by spies,art of politics and  rule, humor even in tight situation ,beauty of things,and unexpected real life twists,sea journey.Important part played by river cauvery in peoples life ,its prosperity,seasonal floods, scenic flow to the sea all are beautifully written.Novel was  based on real incidents and had a descriptive narrative about chola kingdom and interesting incidents that lead to rajaraja chola's Ascension to the throne.Later I bought two books parthiben kanavu(dream of parthiben) and sivagamiyin sabatham(vow of Sivagami).Both were about pallava king mamallan.He was ruler of pallavas kingdom based in  kanchipuram and had rivalry with pulikeshin 2 a powerful chalukyan ruler of badami.In first invasion of kanchi by chalukyas, pallava king mahendravarman is badly wounded and dies.sivagami a bharatha natyam dancer is also taken as prisoner to badami.Prince narasima varman is in love  with her. She vows not to return from badami till pallava king invades badami.After 8 years narasima varma pallava launches attack on badami.badami is destroyed in war with pallavas and pulikeshin was also killed.sivagami is now saved from badami.
.paranjothi who is commander of pallavas becomes affected emotionally by horrors inflicted by war in badami.He gives up his warrior life and becomes a shaivate monk siruthondanar.Sivagami is disappointed that king is now married with another woman and is heartbroken.

this lead me to further read pallavas and chalukyan history in Wikipedia on complete order of pallavas , chalukyas ,their love for art , worship,temples,their change of fortunes, revenge wars over generations.Sadly both dynasties came to end after few generations.

After reading these books I had a  visit to kanchipuram temples which were built by pallavas.I also visited tanjore and kumbakonam to see chola architecture.All this happened in 2012.Now I m living in Karnataka, I came to know about temples of  badami.it is the main attraction in tourism initiatives, I saw pictures of awesome badami cave temples in Internet.That finally led me to a badami trip.It has taken 6 years to come here after knowing its significance in history.Story of novels have lead me to tanjore,kanchi and badami..
  

Tuesday, July 4, 2017

Gokarna Trek to Paradise part2

On Saturday I had completed half the trek path .On day one I received suggestion from coastal guards not visit other beaches via trekking as they were deserted .on Saturday night I even planned to visit murudeshwara Shiva Temple,kumta beach or sirsi temple.But I decided to take a risk to visit lonely beaches.Paradise beach ,small hell beach,half moon all could trekked from om beach.My Lodge owner helped me to plan a alternate shorter route to Paradise beach.There is a place called belekan which can be reached by road. Beach can be reached in 20 mins through a jungle over the hill.Belekan also had beautiful coastal line.
My auto reached belekan beach road end . Auto driver with help of locals showed a bridge on a river.Further there was path over mountains.After thanking Auto driver my journey to Paradise beach starts in hill path.

 Finding Paradise

 There was a private property along the hill.I had a 20 mins walk over the hill.The path from top narrowed down to rocks of sea. I could see sea down but there were no beach visible from the top
  Sea was hitting the hill bottom.Another nature's show it was with all it's  granduer.Nobody was around me to show me path.I came back to top of hill.I used Google maps that showed same path I already tried.I reached the sea view again . This time I managed to find a small path down the hill.Down there was beach and it became visible.on one side hitting a hillock other side was coastline full of rocks and the mountains.Curved were intrusion of sea into hills.I took few pics .I decided to go further next beach which is known as small hell.I could not find a direct path now. now came down a young couple . They travelEd down from belekan on same path.They suggested me to walk along the rocks to find path at end of beach.By then my phone was also off.I took a path to top of mountain and then it lead back to sea.The path was very narrow . Many places I used my hands for grip .My pant and shirt were all muddy and brown by now. It was not correct path as many roots were obstructing on the way.I was back towards the sea .At first sight of  rocks there were my company to guide my days journey.

Found help in hells cliff 



 I found two people sitting on a big rock called hells cliff over the sea.Two dogs were sitting along with them.I called them loud.They could not hear me as sea was louder.I slowly went near them traversing down the hill on rocks .path to hells Cliff was very difficult.I asked if I can accompany them in rest of journey.They agreed and described the nature of route.Proper path is after half moon beach to om beach.Other beaches can be only reached by rocks along the shore.At few places small paths over mountain had to be taken.Dogs were guiding them right from om beach.They were Vivek and kushal from Maharashtra and west Bengal respectively.


Next we went to Paradise beach again.Map was showing longer coastline but beach was  smaller in real.Now there were seven people in beach.I got seated on broken  chair .In some time I climbed rocks to see closer view of Sea.People were taking bath.Few more were taking pictures.There were no supervision by coastal guard like other beaches.



We decided to return to om beach.So we took on Rocky path again to reach small hell beach .After more difficult trail over rocks our group reached the half moon beach .There was only two people there.Vivek and kushal helped me in challenging places by giving hands .They gave warning beforehand in wet slippery rocks.From half moon beach Path became defined.It went over sides of mountain with gorgeous view of sea from the left side.we slowly reached om beach.Dogs were guiding us all over the path on the rocks ,jungles, mountains .We reached om beach edge and had lime soda before getting into beach.Both had come from dharawad by bike.Now I thanked them from bottom of my heart.As we walked over beach they told about presence of linga like structure in the rocks. on day 2 there weren't much rains but started now.We had lunch together.I ordered a veg thali and they ordered sea food.After a hour I started back to town.I found low cash in my purse to take auto from om beach.
 I decided to  walk towards to town on hill road which was around  6 km to gokarna.I again saw long view of kudle beach from the road over top of hills.after 3 kms I took a auto again to town as charges had come down with distance.Om Shanti..

Monday, July 3, 2017

Gokarna temples and beaches part1

A trip to gokarna.I had very enjoyable scenic trip to gokarna at start of July.I was checking on must visit places in Karnataka in Internet by mid-week and read about Gokarna.I saw some images of beautiful beaches there.It was small coastal town. spiritual seekers come for its temples. Tourists come to be close to coastal nature.very special thing in gokarna is seas and mountains lie close to each other at the coast.Main town lies in plains.July was monsoon time and was off season for tourists.spirtual seekers come throughout the year but tourists come in season.November to February is season where foreigners visit beaches. I booked non AC sleeper bus and reached Gokarna by morning.I checked rates in couple of lodges .I found a cheaper and cleaner accommodation in Ashokvana at 9 am.Owner didn't take advance as his digital payment system was not working.ATMs were far.So he agreed to take money by evening. I took bath and had a yoga session.I had breakfast in same hotel.        
 Temples in gokarna .                                     
 First temple that was on my way was anjaneya temple.It was small temple under a tree and was busy.Next I worshiped kali in bhadrakali Amman temple.Then I walked through the town car street.Lot of houses were of old architecture.They had a front garden and had big houses.I could see many households with big houses, joint familes , orthodox people following customs .There were ayurvedic doctors,yoga teachers in Car street.next I went to Mahaganapthi Temple.Ganapathi was in standing pose.

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 Beyond ganapathi temple I visited mahbaleswar temple.There were facilities to do different Poojas to Atma linga in Temple.Many priests were recommending me to do it.I don't prefer customs  so I had a calm darshan .Temple people were planning for some temple work and I gave temple them a contribution.Cash taker was happy to know that I came from madurai where his fond godess Meenakshi is present.Temple was also maintaining cows . There was facility to provide free meals to devotees. 
Gokarna beach
As I entered main beach the rains started .I had conversation with a shopkeeper who was speaking in foreign accent.He derives lot of happiness in season when he sees lot of people around the Beach.Gokarna beach has long cost line and easily accessible from town.Some Pilgrims had tonsured their heads and taking bath. 

            

When I went near beach there were mild drizzling.On the left there was hill having ramatheertam temple.on the right it was long coastline.I had shot my first pictures of the sea from here.There were high tides.Color of sky and waves were of same grey tone.I sat over there for some time in shade for rain to stop.Here are some pics.


Trek to kudle
Then I walked towards the hill.It had Rama theertam temple I took more pics of gokarna from top hill 
Further I treked and reached a road on hill top I found sea down the hill.

I reached a hotel called Namaste cafe that serves vegetarian lunch.Food was less spicy suited for yogis practing in near resort
There was a path down the hill.It was again drizzling.

Kudle beach
Kudle beach was surrounded by two hillocks and semicircle.Beach had several waterways joining seas and we had cross it with wet legs.It started raining again.There were couple of resorts on the shore.Beach was filled with plastic wastes.

Trek to om beach
At end of beach there was a path to road that goes to kudle beach.There were private roads from resorts that I later found.I went ahead in guided path from local.Now the way filled with red sand.Due to rains the it was wet and muddy.I reached a beautiful road that goes up the hill and turns around to get the magnificent om beach.There were sea facing hills and shoreline I could see from the roads like below.
Om beach
As reached om beach I was surprised to see lot of people there.shore line in shape of letter om.Om beach is best of all beaches in gokarna.It has lot of rocks in middle of sea.I noticed a linga like structure in one of those rocks.As I sat I rocks and see the infinite nature of sea, I found peace.As the tides were waving up and down,my mind had become very energetic that lasted whole night.Then I walked across the beach.There were coastal guards who advised me not sit in rocks as Waves were high.I told them about next day planned  trekking to half moon and Paradise beach.They advised me not to go alone as those beaches were deserted.I walked to till end of beach.


Way back to sunshine
I took my way back again to road to kudle beach.I saw some sunshine at end of the day and sea was reflective of sun's glow.Road back to kudle beach was also beautiful with dog (in pic) showing the way.Next day couple of dogs were showing  a complex trail from Paradise to om beach .On Saturday evening indication has come for future .